Shivalayottam

The best expert to write and comment on Shivalaya temples is അഞ്ഞു (Praveen)

Praveen completed the ottam in 2007 and 2008 Shivarathri. Amazing 'feet' and devotion. I am proud of my brother. He has taken Prasanth and myself for a 'Shivalaya-car-ottam' in 2007 when we were in Kerala. He knows the ways,the routes, the roads, bridges, fields and in fact, the whole geography of that 100 sq km area is like the back of his palm. I dedicate this blog to Praveen.....

I first heard about 'Shivalaya-ottam' or 'Sivalaya-ottam' (literally means running from one shiva temple to another) in February 2007 from Praveen. Its a pigrimage undertaken by Shiva worshippers after taking vratham (penance) for atleast three days and sometimes "weeks" on shivarathri day. In 24 hours the pilgrims cover 12 Shiva temples over a distance of about 80 km by foot in Kanyakumari district of Tamilnadu (used to be part of Travancore before the formation of Kerala state in 1956)......

The temples are located in and around Kalkulam the former capital of Venad. The devotees after the ritualistic bath smear the holy ash of the fore head and chant "Govinda Gopala" and visit the 12 temples which are Thirumalai, Thikkurissi, Thrupparappu, Thirunandikkarai, Ponmanai, Pannipakam, Kalkulam, Melangodu, Thriuvidaikkodu, Thiruvithankkodu, Thriupannikkodu, and Thirunattalam.

Praveen has told me a lot, of his experiences and how this pilgrimage has made him stronger as a person. He has met a lot of people during these 2 years; some are regulars who have been doing the ottam for 37 years!. First time Praveen was accompaned by Biju, who followed him from one temple to another in a bike. Biju used to wait for Praveen at each temple and then go on to the next one.

Mr. Vasu, who is 70, on his 38th Sivalaya ottam. he hails from a village near Parassala. Praveen is behind him with the സഞ്ചി (The traditional kerala bag; that contains some water to drink, towel and holy ash or ഭസ്മം that is collected from the 12 temples) and വീശറി (a traditional hand fan). Praveen also mentioned about a "one Mr. Murukan", a rock-quarry worker, who is on his 4th year in 2007. He hails from Payanam, 2 kms off Marthandam. Praveen was with him till the 7th temple Padmanabhapuram aka Kalkulam. Praveen describes him as an amazing guy whose speed is directly proportinal to distance. While Praveen's legs drag even halfway down, his legs get him to stride double fold.

Recently the Kanyakumari District Devasom Board Trust announced a monthly circuit tour connecting all these temples in order to facilitate the devotees to have a darshan of Lord Shiva. As the devotees were put to hardship owing to the lack of infrastructure facilities such as toilets, roads and drinking water, it was decided to develop basic amenities in all the 12 temples.

Some photographs from Praveen during his first successful Ottam in 2007.

Legend (There are many versions in mythology regarding the origin of this pilgrimage, a couple are as follows)

1.For a yajña the Pandavas were going to perform, Yudhistira required the milk of the purushamriga. The mighty human-beast was deeply devoted to Lord Shiva. And held a deep dislike towards Lord Vishnu, and all Vishnu devotees. Bhima took upon himself to bring the milk for the yajña, Lord Krishna wished to show that Shiva and Vishnu are One, and also restrain the overconfidence of Bhima. Krishna therefore gave Bhima 12 Shivalinga images, and told him he should drop one whenever he needed help.

Bhima traveled to the jungle where the purushamriga was in deep meditation, he uttered the words “Govinda, Gopala” , (names of Lord Krishna often chanted by his devotees as a form of worship), while he tried to get milk from the purushamriga. Hearing the names of Vishnu disturbed its mediation on Shiva, and it saw Vishnu appearing in the Shiva Linga it was worshipping. The purushamriga was enraged, and grabbed Bhima. To escape from its claws, Bhima dropped one Shivalinga, which turned into a Shiva shrine. The purushamriga let go of Bhima in order to worship Shiva.

A little later Bhima once again tried to obtain the milk, and again called “Govinda, Gopala”. Again the human-beast chased Bhima and caught him. Once again he dropped one of the Shivalingas Krishna had given him, and another Shiva shrine appeared. In this way the 12 stones created the 12 temples that are known as the Shivalayas.

In the end Bhima was again caught by the purushamriga, when he still had one foot in the territory of the sphinx-purushamriga. Because of this Bhima disputed that he was rightfully free. But Yudhistira judged that the half of Bhima’s body that was still within the territory of the purushamriga belonged to it. Much impressed with Yudhistira’s great justice, the purushamriga gave the milk for the completing of the yajña. And Bhima’s pride was thus subdued.


2.Vyakrapadan, son of Doumaya Maharshi, was a staunch believer of Siva. Lord Krishna engaged Bhima to invite Vyakrapadan for an Aswamedayagam. Lord Krishna handed over 12 Siva Lingams to Bhima and directed him to chant the names of Vishnu while he meets Vyakrapadan. Hearing the names ‘Govinda, Gopala’, irritated Vyakrapadan chased Bhima. Bhima dropped the Lingams one by one on his way, and it is believed that they later became the above-mentioned temples. The idol of the Thirunattalam, the temple where the ottam concluded, is Sankara Narayana-suggesting that Hari and Haran are one and the same.

The twelve Siva temples are:

1.Munchiarai - Thirumalai Siva Temple:


Shivalaya ottam starts here. We started from our home around 4:00am. It was a nice feeling. I drove till this temple.

Legend says that Sri Rama worshipped here. History records the association of Thirumalai Nayyakkar's birth with this temple. Top of a small hillock (where Purusha Mirugham originally worshipped Siva) twin temples in one temple complex reside - one for Siva and the left one for Vishnu. There are beautiful carvings and sculptures.

Praveen took over driving from here

2.Thickkurichi Mahadeva Temple:

The temple is by the side of Thamparaburuni river of Kanyakumari district. There is no bull here and is believed to exist within the river stream. The pillar carvings have scenes from Sundara Kanda of Sri Ramayana. The temple also has a Patanjali sculpture.

3.Thirparappu Temple:


Thiruparappu is the third temple for the Sivalaya Ottam. This temple is surrounded by natural beauty and spiritual richness.The perennial river Kodayar and the waterfalls add beauty to the place



It seems, Adisankara stayed in the temple In Sanskrit this place was called Sreevisalapuram and later named as Thiruparappu in Tamil and it became Thirparappu.
The temple is atleast 1000 to 900 years old if not more. A 1232 CE stone inscription is in the temple. A stone Mandapam and a marker for a secret passage are the other important attractions. This temple for Lord Siva faces the West. The deity is in a wrathful posture as Veerabahu. Probably, after defeating Thaksha he stayed here to ease his wrath. The Nandhi, in this temple, faces the north. At the entrance, on both sides, there are sanctorums for the Ambal and Vinayagar facing the east. On the outside of the temple there are statues of Lord Krishna with ghee and Lord Murugan with Vel. The gold statue in the temple was kept in the Adikesava Perumal Temple as they were afraid of Islam attack. According to a Sanskrit carving, the god was safe- guarding the whole Thiruparappu with his abundant blessings


4.Thirunanthi Karai:

We reached this temple and was disappointed to note that the sreekovil hadn't been opened as the Poojari(Priest) hadn't turned up (07:00am!). It seems that there is a shortage of priests in this area and one person has to cover a few temples single handedly. But it was like a blessing in one way because we could visit the rock-cut temple on the southern side of this temple in scenic natural beauty; eventhough we knew that we will not be able to cover all the 12 temples before 10:00 am.

The Nanthikeeswarar temple is also built in Kerala style amidst a rich forest like vegetation. The temple dates back to Imperial Cholas. Surrounding the sanctum sanctorum are the exquisite wooden depictions of Dashavathara episodes.

On the southern side there is a rock-cut temple (Photos attached including "thripadam's")

5.Ponmanai:


The Deity here was discovered by a Dalit called Dimbilan. Hence the Lord is called Dimbilanrar. Here the roof contains the NavaGrahas (Nine planets). The temple received grants and was served by Pandya kings. There is a dam bulit by Pandyas called Pandya Dam near the temple.

6.Pannipaham:


Here the Lord is in the form of Sri Kirathaka Murthi - Tribal Lord. The related legend speaks of MahaDeva blessing Arjuna with Pasupathasastra (missile of the Lord of the animals) and also slaying a demon who took the form of wildboar. The name of the village itself means pig (Panni=Pantri). True enough wild boar menace is a problem farmers in this part of Kanyakumari district face. The temple is surrounded by lush green fields of not only rice but also different varieties of greens and tubers.

7. Kalkulam/ Padmanabhapuram:




Five storeyed Gopuram with a gold flag pole and a 1000 year history are just some of the important features of the seventh temple in the pilgrms' progress. This temple is the only temple of all 12 temples of the Siva Temple Marathon in which the Gopuram is in Tamil Architecture as against conical Gopurams seen so far. Here the Chief Diety is Sri Neelakanda Swami and His consort is Shakthi as Ananthavalli.

8.Melangodu:


The Chief Deity here is Sri Kalakala. This temple is by the side of an ancient fort called Puliyoor fort. Near the Siva temple is the famous temple on the mountain for Lord Subramanya where He is said to have married Valli.In the Siva temple the Chief Deity is Swayambu Lingam (Self emergent Lingam). This was the last of the temples that we could visit in the morning......4 more to go......

9.Thiruvidaikodu:


This temple is by the side of a stream that runs in a bridge above the road. The Lord with matted hair - Jadaiappan is the name of the Chief Deity. The Deity was later discoverd by a Muslim. To this day the members of the Muslim family have special honours. The Lord is Swayambu Lingam. Legend says the bull of Shiva was tied here.

10.Sri Neelakanda Swami Temple, Thiruvithancodu:


This temple has a campus three acres wide and accomodates both Siva temple at North and Vishnu temple at the South. There are separate circumambular paths for Deities and separate flag poles.

11.Thirupantricodu:


Sri Bhakthavatsala Swami is the chief Deity. This temple has a place in the history of Kanyakumari district. In 1680 CE a Mughal army was defeated by Venad forces after the Mughal General ordered that the Siva Lingam be cut by the sword. This infuriated the retreating Venad forces initially and they charged at the Mughal forces defeating them and chasing them away.

12.ThiruNattalam:

Here the pilgrimage ends. We reached here around 19:00 hours. The Deity is Sri Neelakanda SankaraNarayana Swami - a Swayambu Lingam. Physically exhausted pilgrims in spiritual ecstasy have the Darshan of the Lord here. Legend says that the Purusha Mirugham was given the Divine Cosmic vision of Siva with Vishnu as His part - a vision of Harmony and Unity



The natural beauty in this area is just astounding and out of the world... Should we be settling down here, brothers?