20 Must Dos in Kerala

I received this mail from Praveen and thought everyone intending to visit Kerala should be trying at least some of the following, if not all.....

1. Savour a sadya

A sadya is a typically vegetarian meal, which consists of boiled rice and 10-12 dishes, followed with 2-3 desserts, mostly served at weddings, festivals or special occasions.
Must try -- Payasam (Dessert).

2. Attend a Boat Race

Boat races are normally held during the Onam festival time (August/September). Long boats approximately 100 feet long and manned by over 100 rowers take part in the race cheered by thousands of spectators. The thrill is contagious. You could hop on to one of them and row beyond the finishing line

3. Stay in a Boat house

Boathouses are giant country crafts luxuriously decorated and furnished. It usually consists of 1 or 2 bath-attached bedrooms, an open lounge, deck kitchenette and a crew consisting of oarsmen, a cook and a guide. Boathouses float on the backwaters and give an opportunity to enjoy the scenic beauty along the banks. A night out on the placid waters under the wide and starry skies has few parallels in the whole world

4. Attend Kathakali

Kathakali is a dance form in which actors do not speak but enact dialogues, sung by singers in the background. The emphasis is on facial expressions. Mudras or hand signs too have significance. Kathakali actors excel in the presentation of the most beautiful and most violent scenes with equal skill. The whole face of the artist is painted and it appears as though he is wearing a mask. Performed in front of lighted oil lamps in traditional theatres this sophisticated art form takes you to the hoary past of the epics.

5. Wear a Mundu / KasavuNeriyadu

Mundu is a traditional Kerala dress, which is worn on festivals, for marriages and to temples. It is made from an off-white fabric with an elegant gold border. Men should try wearing the Mundu and women the Kasavu Neriyadu. The deceptively simple tuck is really worth a try. It surprises all those who cannot imagine a dress without belt, buckle or button. Enjoy the freedom, comfort and aesthetics of this simple attire.

6. Watch Kalaripayattu

Kalaripayattu is believed by most historians and scholars to be one of the oldest and most scientific systems of martial training existing in the world. Many of the traditional art forms of Kerala have drawn elements from Kalaripayattu at the evolution stage. Watching Kalaripayattu will definitely be an interesting experience. Vigour and elegance seldom combine in such perfect manner.

7. Get an Ayurvedic massage

The term Ayurveda denotes 'the science of life'. Ayurveda is a system of teaching to achieve perfect health-both physical and mental and to attain the bliss of real life. Must try-an Ayurvedic massage to soothe your aching muscles and feel rejuvenated. The secrets of an ancient science are yours for the asking.

8. Watch the sunset

Relax and watch the sunset at the beach along side the Chinese fishing nets in Cochin . Similar views are possible from the backwaters or any other beach side in Kerala-a truly picturesque and memorable experience. Watch the birds flying to their distant homes. Catch a glimpse of the sun setting behind the palm leaves. Listen to the ceaseless sighs of the breeze and the sobs of the waves. Behold the pageantry of the protean clouds. Discover the poet in you.

9. Shop at a local market

It would be an interesting experience to see the wide variety of vegetables, fruits, fish, flowers snacks and knick-knacks that are sold by eager vendors. Observe how people bargain while shopping. Share the simple joys of the give and take of life in an unfamiliar yet charming setting.

10. Stay in a tree house

A tree house is a cozy little house on top of a tree with picturesque views. Relish the chance to enjoy the sparkling air and the unique flora and fauna from a vantage point. From the secure perch savour the night sounds of a tropical forest.

11. Take an Elephant ride

This is possible at the Periyar wildlife sanctuary where you can take a tour through the jungle on elephant back. A mahout will guide you through. Feel how Maharajahs felt high and mighty riding into the midst of their admiring subjects.

12. Walk through a paddy field

Take a walk along the narrow dyke through lolling, green paddy fields, a chance to take in the fresh, clean air-an unforgettable experience. Do not forget to feel the slender shoots. Their softness lingers long in your fingertips just as the fragrance and the hues of the field flowers fill your mind forever. A trip in the early morning mist through the paddy fields can give you a feel of the bliss of the dawn of creation.

13. Taste Toddy and Karimeen fry

Make sure you try kallu (sweet toddy extracted from coconut palm) and taste Karimeen (carp) fry and a spicy chutney or pickle. The brew is as inebriating as the fish is delicious.

14. Shop for spices and an Aranmula mirror

Make sure you shop for fresh spices and an Aranmula Kannadi (mirror)-this is a special mirror made from four metals copper, silver, lead and bronze. In the past only the royal family owned this mirror. These are very rare mirrors and only 2 master craftsman and their families still make them.

15. Wake up to the smell of delicious breakfast

Make sure to try as many different items as you can from the wide spread. Must try Puttu kadala, Idiappam stew, Appam and chicken curry or vegetable stew.

16. Watch the fishermen go out to the sea

It is interesting to watch the fishermen go out to the sea with their fishing nets in their small boats and to see them return with their catch. Do watch how they transact business by the seashore. See how man harnesses the bounties of nature.

17. Have tea at a Thattukada

Thattukada is a small roadside teashop, which serves tea and snacks. The most interesting thing to watch is how the tea is made and poured into the glasses

18. Taste the different varities of bananas

Try the red, green and yellow varieties - Also try the milkshakes and snacks made from each of the different types of banana. While in Kerala you could become an addict of banana chips.

19. Collect Antiques

The Jew Street in Fort Kochi is famous for its display of antiques. Elaborately carved pens, ornamental brass latches and antique jewelry are some of the things you could pick up.

20. Take a boat ride through the backwaters

This is a relaxing experience as the boat takes you along the narrow canals and beautiful villages. You get an opportunity to see local people engaged in fishing, duck rearing and shell collection. You may also see the traditional toddy makers at work on the coconut palms.

Back Benchers

The seating arrangements at school came to mind today as Chandran asked me a clarification on who were the backbenchers at our school.

I was always a backbencher all through my school days. Girls and boys (if in the same class), used to sit in different rows. Interestingly another friend told me recently that still girls and boys sit separately in schools even in primary classes. In one instance when a teacher tried to take the 'bold step' of making boys and girls seated adjacently, there was a 'big hoohah' and it seems some parents even complained to revert back to 'normal'....

Things are different in college and universities. You are free to sit at any place that is available.

A back-bencher, according to the dictionary, is a member of parliament(MP)or a legislator who does not hold a government office and is not a front bench spokesperson in the Opposition. A backbencher may be a new parliamentary member yet to receive high office, a senior figure dropped from government, or someone who for whatever reason is not chosen to sit either in the ministry or the opposition.

At school, in grade 10, Mahesh, Chandran, Renji and I were the backbenchers. Interestingly all of us are settled outside India, in four corners of the world. Mahesh is in US, I am in UK, Renji is in Dubai and Chandran is in Singapore...

My first experience with Mata Amritanandamayi (Amma)

I met John in Dec 2007 at Alexandra Palace during Amma's visit to London. He is a musician from Ireland, a born artist. John composes music, does painting, write screenplays etc etc ....Recently he remarked that I am good at anything I turn my hands to and suggested that we will challenge eachother to write something...a poem or a story. We agreed that I will write about Amma...

I have heard about Amma for a long time; in fact had many opportunities to meet her before I came to UK. One of my friends told me that its not yet my 'time ' to see her. Another said, "I will meet her at the right time"…It’s a niyogam…I have been to Karamana (Trivandrum) and also very near to her Ashram in Calicut many times when I was in Kerala. But I never thought about going there

In July 2005 I was going for 'the short course on Human Genetics' to Barharbor. It was just by chance that I met Amma in New York. I had planned my journey via New York (yes, one of my all time favourite places for a variety of reasons) to visit Chandru uncle and family. It was just a coincidence (or was it a niyogam) that Amma was also visiting US and her 3 day visit in Newyork started the day after I reached New York! Uncle and aunt said that they were going to see Amma that morning and that I was more than welcome to go with them to Manhattan.
After that it was all like a dream.

We drove by Car to Manhattan. There was a small queue forming outside the building for darshan. One of the nice Volunteers asked me outside whether I was seeing Amma for the first time. They gave a special colour sticker to put on my shirt and I was (like all other first timers) given special preference. I was also given a token for Darshan.

As I entered the hall I felt that I am entering a big temple. You are in the centre of busy Manhattan but feel as though you are in some Ashram; so calm, peaceful and serene. Everything was in order. There was a smooth flow to all that is happening inside. Amma had not come there yet. There were Volunteers (from all parts of the world in white clothing’s, either Saree or Kurtha) so happy helping and serving others. It was all like a well organised and maintained, free flowing world of energy, divinity and holiness.

I was given a seat very near to the front (as a first timer)of the stage where Amma would be sitting when she arrives. There was some nice Indian music and also a screen showing some of Amma's charity work from around the world...the notable ones being Amma at UN General assembly and also helping the victims of 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami. Mata Amritanandamayi Math had announced a billion rupees (23 million dollars) in aid to the victims of the tsunami. The Math's relief work was happening in many parts of India and Sri Lanka.

People were all in expectant mood on the imminent arrival of Amma. Then all of a sudden the music stops and there I see amma, a bit shorter than I expected from photos, walking slowly towards the Podium from the far entrance, smiling , reaching out to people on both sides of the way that was created for her, accompanied by a large contingent of disciples and followers in various colours. Amma was wearing a white saree with the typical round bindi of chandana with the smaller kunkumum inside on her forehead. I felt like a breeze of divine energy engulfing the whole hall.

Every one sat down, as soon as she seated herself on the peedam. She was smiling at everyone and all eyes were focussed on her. Soon Swami Amritaswaroopananda, Amma's first disciple started the proceedings for the day. He first said Om Amriteshwari namaha and this was followed by the most astounding recital of OM, I have ever heard. It was like uttering the sacred sound coming from deep with in you and never ending...An amazing experience.

When my turn came I stood in the queue and after some time we had to stand in 2 lines and move forward on our knees. Somebody asked me what my mother-tongue was when I was nearing Amma. People were crying, smiling, laughing, meditating , some remained still with their eyes closed. I saw a few people in front of me getting malas from Amma. I wished for one and was thinking I should have bought one from the stall, when suddenly Usha aunty came from nowhere and gave me a rudraksha mala ...It was pure magic beyond belief.

What followed was one of the most wonderful experiences when Amma looked at me, hugged me and then whispered into my ears ,' aentae ponnu monae' repeatedly. She took the mala from me and put around my neck. I showed her a family photo. She hugged me again; gave me an apple, prasadam and bhasmam. She asked me to sit near her for sometime. I heard from someone later that she gives apple only to special people.:-) I had tears in my eyes...Just tears rolling down my cheeks...Caught in moments of bliss.....The aura around her was undescribable. I could smell her long time since the hug.

Since then I have met Amma three more times in London ..Oct 2005, Oct 2006 and Dec 2007. I have taken a few of my friends and family members for Darshan in London & also done Seva. One of my good friends has since become the main IT person in Amma's team in UK.

Lokaah Samastaah Sukhino Bhavantu..........

Shivalayottam

The best expert to write and comment on Shivalaya temples is അഞ്ഞു (Praveen)

Praveen completed the ottam in 2007 and 2008 Shivarathri. Amazing 'feet' and devotion. I am proud of my brother. He has taken Prasanth and myself for a 'Shivalaya-car-ottam' in 2007 when we were in Kerala. He knows the ways,the routes, the roads, bridges, fields and in fact, the whole geography of that 100 sq km area is like the back of his palm. I dedicate this blog to Praveen.....

I first heard about 'Shivalaya-ottam' or 'Sivalaya-ottam' (literally means running from one shiva temple to another) in February 2007 from Praveen. Its a pigrimage undertaken by Shiva worshippers after taking vratham (penance) for atleast three days and sometimes "weeks" on shivarathri day. In 24 hours the pilgrims cover 12 Shiva temples over a distance of about 80 km by foot in Kanyakumari district of Tamilnadu (used to be part of Travancore before the formation of Kerala state in 1956)......

The temples are located in and around Kalkulam the former capital of Venad. The devotees after the ritualistic bath smear the holy ash of the fore head and chant "Govinda Gopala" and visit the 12 temples which are Thirumalai, Thikkurissi, Thrupparappu, Thirunandikkarai, Ponmanai, Pannipakam, Kalkulam, Melangodu, Thriuvidaikkodu, Thiruvithankkodu, Thriupannikkodu, and Thirunattalam.

Praveen has told me a lot, of his experiences and how this pilgrimage has made him stronger as a person. He has met a lot of people during these 2 years; some are regulars who have been doing the ottam for 37 years!. First time Praveen was accompaned by Biju, who followed him from one temple to another in a bike. Biju used to wait for Praveen at each temple and then go on to the next one.

Mr. Vasu, who is 70, on his 38th Sivalaya ottam. he hails from a village near Parassala. Praveen is behind him with the സഞ്ചി (The traditional kerala bag; that contains some water to drink, towel and holy ash or ഭസ്മം that is collected from the 12 temples) and വീശറി (a traditional hand fan). Praveen also mentioned about a "one Mr. Murukan", a rock-quarry worker, who is on his 4th year in 2007. He hails from Payanam, 2 kms off Marthandam. Praveen was with him till the 7th temple Padmanabhapuram aka Kalkulam. Praveen describes him as an amazing guy whose speed is directly proportinal to distance. While Praveen's legs drag even halfway down, his legs get him to stride double fold.

Recently the Kanyakumari District Devasom Board Trust announced a monthly circuit tour connecting all these temples in order to facilitate the devotees to have a darshan of Lord Shiva. As the devotees were put to hardship owing to the lack of infrastructure facilities such as toilets, roads and drinking water, it was decided to develop basic amenities in all the 12 temples.

Some photographs from Praveen during his first successful Ottam in 2007.

Legend (There are many versions in mythology regarding the origin of this pilgrimage, a couple are as follows)

1.For a yajña the Pandavas were going to perform, Yudhistira required the milk of the purushamriga. The mighty human-beast was deeply devoted to Lord Shiva. And held a deep dislike towards Lord Vishnu, and all Vishnu devotees. Bhima took upon himself to bring the milk for the yajña, Lord Krishna wished to show that Shiva and Vishnu are One, and also restrain the overconfidence of Bhima. Krishna therefore gave Bhima 12 Shivalinga images, and told him he should drop one whenever he needed help.

Bhima traveled to the jungle where the purushamriga was in deep meditation, he uttered the words “Govinda, Gopala” , (names of Lord Krishna often chanted by his devotees as a form of worship), while he tried to get milk from the purushamriga. Hearing the names of Vishnu disturbed its mediation on Shiva, and it saw Vishnu appearing in the Shiva Linga it was worshipping. The purushamriga was enraged, and grabbed Bhima. To escape from its claws, Bhima dropped one Shivalinga, which turned into a Shiva shrine. The purushamriga let go of Bhima in order to worship Shiva.

A little later Bhima once again tried to obtain the milk, and again called “Govinda, Gopala”. Again the human-beast chased Bhima and caught him. Once again he dropped one of the Shivalingas Krishna had given him, and another Shiva shrine appeared. In this way the 12 stones created the 12 temples that are known as the Shivalayas.

In the end Bhima was again caught by the purushamriga, when he still had one foot in the territory of the sphinx-purushamriga. Because of this Bhima disputed that he was rightfully free. But Yudhistira judged that the half of Bhima’s body that was still within the territory of the purushamriga belonged to it. Much impressed with Yudhistira’s great justice, the purushamriga gave the milk for the completing of the yajña. And Bhima’s pride was thus subdued.


2.Vyakrapadan, son of Doumaya Maharshi, was a staunch believer of Siva. Lord Krishna engaged Bhima to invite Vyakrapadan for an Aswamedayagam. Lord Krishna handed over 12 Siva Lingams to Bhima and directed him to chant the names of Vishnu while he meets Vyakrapadan. Hearing the names ‘Govinda, Gopala’, irritated Vyakrapadan chased Bhima. Bhima dropped the Lingams one by one on his way, and it is believed that they later became the above-mentioned temples. The idol of the Thirunattalam, the temple where the ottam concluded, is Sankara Narayana-suggesting that Hari and Haran are one and the same.

The twelve Siva temples are:

1.Munchiarai - Thirumalai Siva Temple:


Shivalaya ottam starts here. We started from our home around 4:00am. It was a nice feeling. I drove till this temple.

Legend says that Sri Rama worshipped here. History records the association of Thirumalai Nayyakkar's birth with this temple. Top of a small hillock (where Purusha Mirugham originally worshipped Siva) twin temples in one temple complex reside - one for Siva and the left one for Vishnu. There are beautiful carvings and sculptures.

Praveen took over driving from here

2.Thickkurichi Mahadeva Temple:

The temple is by the side of Thamparaburuni river of Kanyakumari district. There is no bull here and is believed to exist within the river stream. The pillar carvings have scenes from Sundara Kanda of Sri Ramayana. The temple also has a Patanjali sculpture.

3.Thirparappu Temple:


Thiruparappu is the third temple for the Sivalaya Ottam. This temple is surrounded by natural beauty and spiritual richness.The perennial river Kodayar and the waterfalls add beauty to the place



It seems, Adisankara stayed in the temple In Sanskrit this place was called Sreevisalapuram and later named as Thiruparappu in Tamil and it became Thirparappu.
The temple is atleast 1000 to 900 years old if not more. A 1232 CE stone inscription is in the temple. A stone Mandapam and a marker for a secret passage are the other important attractions. This temple for Lord Siva faces the West. The deity is in a wrathful posture as Veerabahu. Probably, after defeating Thaksha he stayed here to ease his wrath. The Nandhi, in this temple, faces the north. At the entrance, on both sides, there are sanctorums for the Ambal and Vinayagar facing the east. On the outside of the temple there are statues of Lord Krishna with ghee and Lord Murugan with Vel. The gold statue in the temple was kept in the Adikesava Perumal Temple as they were afraid of Islam attack. According to a Sanskrit carving, the god was safe- guarding the whole Thiruparappu with his abundant blessings


4.Thirunanthi Karai:

We reached this temple and was disappointed to note that the sreekovil hadn't been opened as the Poojari(Priest) hadn't turned up (07:00am!). It seems that there is a shortage of priests in this area and one person has to cover a few temples single handedly. But it was like a blessing in one way because we could visit the rock-cut temple on the southern side of this temple in scenic natural beauty; eventhough we knew that we will not be able to cover all the 12 temples before 10:00 am.

The Nanthikeeswarar temple is also built in Kerala style amidst a rich forest like vegetation. The temple dates back to Imperial Cholas. Surrounding the sanctum sanctorum are the exquisite wooden depictions of Dashavathara episodes.

On the southern side there is a rock-cut temple (Photos attached including "thripadam's")

5.Ponmanai:


The Deity here was discovered by a Dalit called Dimbilan. Hence the Lord is called Dimbilanrar. Here the roof contains the NavaGrahas (Nine planets). The temple received grants and was served by Pandya kings. There is a dam bulit by Pandyas called Pandya Dam near the temple.

6.Pannipaham:


Here the Lord is in the form of Sri Kirathaka Murthi - Tribal Lord. The related legend speaks of MahaDeva blessing Arjuna with Pasupathasastra (missile of the Lord of the animals) and also slaying a demon who took the form of wildboar. The name of the village itself means pig (Panni=Pantri). True enough wild boar menace is a problem farmers in this part of Kanyakumari district face. The temple is surrounded by lush green fields of not only rice but also different varieties of greens and tubers.

7. Kalkulam/ Padmanabhapuram:




Five storeyed Gopuram with a gold flag pole and a 1000 year history are just some of the important features of the seventh temple in the pilgrms' progress. This temple is the only temple of all 12 temples of the Siva Temple Marathon in which the Gopuram is in Tamil Architecture as against conical Gopurams seen so far. Here the Chief Diety is Sri Neelakanda Swami and His consort is Shakthi as Ananthavalli.

8.Melangodu:


The Chief Deity here is Sri Kalakala. This temple is by the side of an ancient fort called Puliyoor fort. Near the Siva temple is the famous temple on the mountain for Lord Subramanya where He is said to have married Valli.In the Siva temple the Chief Deity is Swayambu Lingam (Self emergent Lingam). This was the last of the temples that we could visit in the morning......4 more to go......

9.Thiruvidaikodu:


This temple is by the side of a stream that runs in a bridge above the road. The Lord with matted hair - Jadaiappan is the name of the Chief Deity. The Deity was later discoverd by a Muslim. To this day the members of the Muslim family have special honours. The Lord is Swayambu Lingam. Legend says the bull of Shiva was tied here.

10.Sri Neelakanda Swami Temple, Thiruvithancodu:


This temple has a campus three acres wide and accomodates both Siva temple at North and Vishnu temple at the South. There are separate circumambular paths for Deities and separate flag poles.

11.Thirupantricodu:


Sri Bhakthavatsala Swami is the chief Deity. This temple has a place in the history of Kanyakumari district. In 1680 CE a Mughal army was defeated by Venad forces after the Mughal General ordered that the Siva Lingam be cut by the sword. This infuriated the retreating Venad forces initially and they charged at the Mughal forces defeating them and chasing them away.

12.ThiruNattalam:

Here the pilgrimage ends. We reached here around 19:00 hours. The Deity is Sri Neelakanda SankaraNarayana Swami - a Swayambu Lingam. Physically exhausted pilgrims in spiritual ecstasy have the Darshan of the Lord here. Legend says that the Purusha Mirugham was given the Divine Cosmic vision of Siva with Vishnu as His part - a vision of Harmony and Unity



The natural beauty in this area is just astounding and out of the world... Should we be settling down here, brothers?